Nikko

On Sunday Mike and I took the train up to Nikko, which is supposed to be a beautiful place and perfect for viewing the koyo or autumn colours. Since we were already up early (having listened to the ABs v France game live on radiosport) we left nice and early and arrived in Nikko mid-morning.

Unusually for us we'd checked out the weather forecast before we left home which meant we had plenty of warm clothes - the temperature range for the day was 3 - 5 degrees! The train ride up started out pretty stuffy and hot (and we were cursing the personal heaters under each seat which seemed to be on maximum output) but by the time we got a little closer to Nikko you could feel the cold seeping through the windows and we were putting all our layers on again.

First thing we did was find something to eat. Both the Rough Guide and Lonely Planet recommended Happari Dako for their fried noodles and yakitori and excellent service so that's where we decided to stop off. It was a tiny wee restaurant - only 3 tables - with the walls (and ceilings) covered with notes, business cards, money, student cards, even used boarding passes with messages from foreign and japanese tourists who have visited Happari Dako. Of course we left a card too! In return the owner gave us a map with her version of "Nikko in One Day" telling us which places were Number 1 beautiful and what to miss.

We spent the next few hours doing the trail around the temples and shrines of Nikko, most of which are World Heritage sites and all were amazing. Much more ornate than most of the temples we have seen so far in Japan. The highlight though was seeing all the autumn colours in the hills, along the streets and around the temples - very very impressive!

Unfortunately though, the weather gradually grew worse as the day went on and despite there only being a 30% chance of rain it was bucketing down by the early afternoon and we even bought an umbrella (just another for our extensive collection). We finished up at the former Imperial Villa which at least gave us an hour or so indoors looking at the imperial family's old holiday home. The garden there was particularly beautiful too.

We didn't make it up to the waterfall and lake which are also highly recommended by most people. We're hoping to go back again if we have time (!) perhaps with a rental car and to stay overnight.

Click here to see more photos from Nikko.